LaLa Berlin – Dark Side Of The Moon
by Liz McGrath posted on January 29, 2009LaLa Berlin is a brand famous for it’s luxury knitwear, and that’s exactly what they started off the show with. With a colour palette that started off entirely black, models came down the runway in a mixture of fantastic sculptural chunky knit wool sweaters and extremely delicate, finely-woven knits that had almost sheer panels in them. These were paired with leather trousers or leggings that had silver studs down the back – all tres rock chick. Another big influence was Gothic, visible in the holey knits and all-black theme and in items such as a maxi-length dress with bat-wing sleeves, a short punky leather shift and a peep-hole knitted dress – all perfect for those who love the darker side of the moon.
The collection took a sudden change of direction with the surprising appearance of a tailored red trouser suit that had an 80’s power feeling to it, with sleeves pushed up to the elbow. A bit of a red herring, literally. You either love a pillar-box red trouser suit or you don’t – I can’t say I was a big fan. The suit was a signal for more colour to follow – although in more muted tones (thankfully). Long patchwork cardigans (likely a mixture of cashmere, wool and mohair) in brown, gold, maroon and the occasional flash of bright orange were slouchy cool. They looked incredibly soft and comfy, the sort of thing you that once you own, you would just live in. The patchwork look was carried thorugh in sweaters and polar-necks, and stripey mohair versions had a definite grungey Cobain feel, although paired as they were with glamorous leggings and killer heels, they took on a very sophisticated edge.
Finally the collection moved firmly back to night with tones of navy-blue, grey and black. A long maxi-length fitted grey silk dress was absolutely stunning while a jumpsuit variation was oh so hip. A short blue satin dress was sexy and fun, however there were also a couple of slightly disappointing baggy shifts that just looked like sacks on the models – and one white dress that was far too loose on the top-half revealed the model’s flat chest to the whole audience. A cowl-necked black sweater that came out next made up for it though. It was adorned with shiny and sparkly pieces (of exactly what I don’t know yet,) and it was pure rock chick, Kate Moss would suit it. Another successful rock’n’roll flavoured look followed – a very chunky black knitted cardigan-coat, that was worn with great attitude by the model who marched down the runway.
Designer Leyla Piedayesh peeped round the corner at the end, her adorable new baby girl in one arm, and gave a brief wave. It’s quite remarkable when you think that this whole show has come from her and her small team of people behind that little store on Mulack Straße. As always her luxury knitwear was geniosity – with pieces that were well-crafted, well-thought out and in great colours and fabrics. The only off-notes were some shapeless shifts and for me, the red trouser suit, that would have been better left out. Also the hair and make-up could have done more to shape the vision – models had sculpted pony-tails and barely-there make-up that was rather bland. But credit where it’s due, this collection will connect with all young women who fancy themselves as having a little wild streak somewhere, and outright rock chicks of course will be in seventh heaven. La La Berlin continues to demonstrate why it’s one of the most interesting brands on show during Berlin Fashion Week.
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