Penkov: Military Meets Safari
by Floor Serbrock posted on January 20, 2010The suspense builds up at the Penkov show when the lights finally go off, making way for blue spotlight flashes, a thick bassline barking out of the speakers. Waiting for the first face, a model struts out in synch with the beat kicking in. It‘s Missy Elliot, Run For Coveeeerrrr! and the first outfit comprises a gorgeously tailored coat, above the knees and very Burberry. As more and more looks come out, a theme develops: military meets safari. Lots of beige, lots of dirty olive-green; not a particulary chirpy collection but very smart. Many of the models have top hats on, giving the collection an androgenous, cool edge. Flowing, empire-esque dresses also reveal themselves, as do big silver egyptian bangles, high waisted cropped pants and skirts, and at one suprising point a pair of over-the-knee baggy wellington-like boots (Prada anyone?). One model stands out in particular, and it is her outfit that is crowned my favourite: a well-tailored mannish look; baggy black pants, high-waisted and narrow at the ankles. High heels and a smart, black, silk jacket, the top hat not forgotten. The look is a wink to an androgynous 20‘s, but still remaining very feminine. Unlike the other models, this model doesn’t walk like she has a pelvic problem and a spine that can‘t support the weight of her head. She walks effortlessly cool, shoulders slightly hunched, to the beat, with an air of nonchalence. I like her, and I like her outfit. A reminder of how important the model is for the clothes.
Although I must say I missed some vibrancy or variation in the collection, all in all Penkov presented a well-made, smart collection. Regretfully I couldn‘t make any photographs of the collection (one needs a camera for that) but I‘m sure the collection will be up on LEXPOSURE in no time.






HI,

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