Backstage Diaries: Milan Menswear S/S 10 Day 1 - Reunions & Readers

by Lexposure Backstage posted on June 21, 2009

We kick off Milan Menswear with a new set of backstage diaries, documenting the little-known details of everything that happens behind-the-scenes. As we have previously covered menswear, this first day consisted of many revisits and reunions…but of course, each season brings brand-new happenings as well.

11 a.m. C.P. Company

A new Brazilian wave of models overtakes the rebranded casting of C.P. Company, but veterans like Ferdi Sibbel and Michael Osborn still make their way into the matured image of the label. Diversity is prevalent as well, with humble Brazilian Thiago Santos and vibrant Sudanese model Ger Duany – who towers over mostly everyone, might we add – being standouts. The collection itself is incredibly spring/summer – a gathering of simple lines and bright blues that accentuate the refreshing nature of those seasons.

Seen & Heard: Models Jean Carlos and Andrei jokingly having a six-pack contest before conceding to one another; Michael Osborn napping for most of the pre-first looks period, oblivious to the whispered compliments given to his bright green Converses.

12 p.m. Costume National

Just as last season, lean, black looks dominate the style of the new collection, but more colors seep in as reminders that this is a SS collection. The casting remains consistent, with familiar names like Cole, Ash, Jethro alongside newcomers like Aiden Andrews. It is a fun and relaxed atmosphere throughout, but everything seems almost lazy as well, as most of the guys relegate themselves to lounging in the many chairs rather than walking around the open space. As the video interviewers arrive, however, a lot of laughter and conversation begin.

Seen & Heard: Ash Stymest excitedly narrating a hilarious tale about accidentally-opened fire extinguishers, false fire alarms, and needing to toss mattresses out of third-floor windows in order to jump out; Joseph Culp continuing to fill out his sketchbook (He has evidently improved since we saw him last season); The blaring bass of the runway music almost knocking everyone backstage to the ground when played during rehearsal and the show; A bottle of champagne in the catering area suddenly exploding post-show, ensuring that everyone within a 4-feet radius will smell like alcohol for at least another hour.

2 p.m. Jil Sander

Since the show takes place at the same location at Via Beltrami, walking into backstage is like a major sense of de ja vu: everything from the bright white walls to the delicious catered food is completely familiar. The one thing that is different, however, are the (Spock-inspired?) haircuts that give all the models an even more boyish look — in fact, due to the youthful appearances, it almost seems strange to see some of them smoking on the balconies.

Seen & Heard: Adrian Bosch sketching a self-portrait (?) on a notepad, complete with his new bowl cut; Jakob Hybholt concentrating on a thick book as his hair is reshaped; Raf Simons, looking pristine and relaxed, speaking to his show director about some last-minute details; Mathias Bergh arriving not to walk in the show (He is on Gucci-exclusive this season), but rather to watch it and support some friends.

4 p.m. Burberry Prorsum

As a curtain call to Burberry’s appearance in Milan – the label will be moving its shows back to London next season – Christopher Bailey provides us with what Burberry Prorsum does best: a traditional British look embodied with the spirit of the next generation. While some of the jackets seem atypical for a SS collection, the raincoats are definitely eye-catching, and the accessories make even the female dressers swoon. Familiar faces like Jeremy Young, Danny Beauchamp, and SS09 campaign frontman musician George Craig return to the label’s catwalk. But one who caught the eyes of many was newcomer Linus Gustin of Nisch Management, whose amazing bone structure looked even more intense as he donned his outfits.

Seen & Heard: A load of beanbags next to the catering area allowing many of the models to relax – but not until they jokingly “fight” over beanbag space, that is; The cast is definitely a studious bunch, with Tom Nicon focusing on his MacBook in the makeup area and Albert Kraup, Zdenek Zaboj, Lasse Pedersen, and others reading in extreme concentration upon their beanbags (Julius Beckers is in the middle of “Imperium” by Robert Harris); Christopher Bailey giving the world’s biggest hug to Suzy Menkes before answering her interview questions.

6:30 p.m. Trussardi 1911

A giant cast is what is initially notable about this show, as most of the models are crowded on some outdoor stairs when we walk in. The nice evening weather allows for some relaxing moments as many of them undergo their final show of the day, but the resting period still ends quickly as everyone is rushed to get changed. The collection is both immense in quality and diversity, including everything from red-themed suits and suede tops to a glittering, jeweled jacket. From all the courageous creativity involved in this huge collection, one would never suspect a struggling economy in the background.

Seen & Heard: Marcus Hedbrandh constantly trying to nap — and constantly being woken up in five-minute durations to do this and that (He remains gracious towards every request despite his fatigue); Philipp Bierbaum and Gerhard Friedl appearing as a new pair of good friends, as the two converse throughout both pre-show and during the show (Other than their respective catwalk moments, of course); Backstage security becoming nervous when it becomes crowded in the changing area, but immediately relaxing when they realize that it’s mainly because of how many models there are and not how much press was allowed in.