Backstage Diaries: Milan Menswear S/S 10 Day 2 Part 2 - Sleek to Masculine to Atypical
by Lexposure Backstage posted on June 24, 20093:30 p.m. Gianfranco Ferre
The first thing we noticed as we entered the backstage area was casting director Angus Munro, who graciously provided us with our first casting director feature earlier this year. Him and his team were the brains behind the youthful yet sophisticated casting behind this season’s Ferre show, and from the initial scanning of the backstage area alone, it was easy to see that everyone fit the brand’s new profile (First seen in the womenswear show two seasons ago) quite well. When the incredibly well-tailored clothes came on, the young boys were immediately transformed into all types of gentlemen — gentlemen who are just as confident in shiny fabric, mind you. And although the dressing area wasn’t the largest space, things still ran as smooth as can be.
Seen & Heard: Many models reading old editions of Vogue — most notably Vogue Italia — as they awaited the First Looks call; Several models being impressed by an old editorial of Sasha Pivovarova, while others commented on how the girls had opportunities to participate in much “cooler” photoshoots; A few dressers becoming mesmerized by the amazing appearance and fit of the clothes – as if they saw them for the first time!
5:00 p.m. Versace
No doubt, Donatella stands alone in her ability to draw the most lucrative male Supermodels to walk in her shows – and Versace is also the place where the next male Supermodels are born. The blend of old and new cast members gave the clothes’ orange-and-grey palette a signature Versace feel, and the lighting on the runway — much warmer than usual — served as a final, sunkissed touch for this collection.
Seen & Heard: Pat McGrath running around and making sure all the necessary makeup artists were at their posts on the upper level dressing area (The makeup area is at the lower level); Every model entering and exiting a small bathroom to change their underwear – and hounded by photographers as they each exited; Donatella giving a small conference to selective press in a middle level room; Will Chalker and Noah Mills sharing some laughter and jokes as they waited to line up commands.
6:00 p.m. Giuliano Fujiwara
The most interesting collection of the day went to the house of Giuliano Fujiwara, which supplemented its unique separates with even more unique accessories. From cube earrings to complex neckwear to futuristic shades, it appeared that the designs were almost more appropriate for Paris (Where most of the Japanese labels prefer to present their shows). The sheer brilliance of small details brought definition to new age menswear.
Seen & Heard: Several of the earrings coming loose on the models’ ears pre-show, prompting frantic workers to search on the floor for them; Clement Chabernaud rushing in to get hair and makeup finished (He had just finished Versace); A hair stylist becoming slightly frustrated and talking loudly towards everyone around him as he attempted to work in a cramped space – even if most of the people didn’t understand Italian at all.
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