Backstage Diaries: Milan Menswear S/S 10 Days 3 & 4 - A Wild Yet Pleasant End
by Lexposure Backstage posted on June 27, 2009Sorry about the long delay! We are up and running again, and we will also be posting the Paris diaries in the next few days.
Day 3, 12 p.m. Roberto Cavalli
Creative trousers were the highlight of the new collection, as half-unzipped waistpants and intricately embroidered pant legs dominated a collection that, at times, actually didn’t look Cavalli at all. Simple, pastel-colored shirts were a rather unusual sight, but when supplemented by detailed shoulder pads, some were representative of the house once again. While the initial backstage atmosphere was calm, everything became quite hectic as the beginning of the show drew close. As Roberto gave brief interviews near the back of the runway, no one could imagine the brief period of insanity that was taking place just meters away. And even when the difficult tasks were taken care of, the nervous energy in the air loomed until the final applause began.
Seen & Heard: Adrian Bosch arriving quite late and stressing out the hairdressers, as there was no time to color his hair as originally intended; Dennis Jager arriving as Adrian’s alternate, only to be relegated to watching the backstage happenings when the Danish model finally arrived; Six dressers working frantically to get AJ Abulrub out of his first look and into his second – the pants were nearly impossible to get off; Vincent Lacrocq noting that if the few planes carrying many of the male models from Milan to Paris crashed, they would all be replaced at the Paris shows in a second – but perhaps, he jokes, every show will have a minute of silence for the original cast beforehand.
Day 4, 9:15 a.m. John Varvatos
The day started out early at the same church John Varvatos took place last season – only this time the church cellar was “backstage,” and the first-level area that was FW09 backstage was now the front entrance to the show. The dressing space was much more cramped this way, but things still moved fluidly, with the staff and John himself running from corner to corner, doing final checks on every little detail. The collection is signature Varvatos, with mostly dark fabrics accented by small bits of color every few looks. A couple of mesh tops near the end proved to be the highlight, as they turned the heads of many front row guests. With the economic situations at hand, it is anyone’s guess whether the show will remain in Milan next season or return to NYC, but if this was the final curtain call for the collection in Italy, it was certainly a memorable one.
Seen & Heard: The lovely ladies who conduct final ironing and tailoring of the clothes reorganizing all the electric plugs so no one would trip on them; Show opener Steffen of Nine Daughters and a Stereo getting some grooming every few seconds – as the first look out he is important, after all; Zdenek Zaboj completely exhausted and sleeping with his forehead on the only open desk space left in the room.
Day 4, 3 p.m. Z Zegna
The final major show of Milan menswear did not disappoint, as a plethora of models were on hand to help Z Zegna show off its latest creations. A sophisticated yet retro look formed the collection’s theme, as the wonderfully sleek suits Zegna is known for were topped off by intriguing hats that gave a quirky gentlemen feel to all who wore them. Aquamarine was a key color that drew much laud, and a full tuxedo in that very hue provided a refreshing take on spring/summer formal menswear. All in all, the show, which took place under glass ceilings and blue skies, was the perfect final touch for Milan and an optimistic transition to what would be coming up in Paris.
Seen & Heard: Thiago Santos sliding into his dressing area like a figure skater before being changed into his second look; The models themselves assisting backstage photographers with taking pictures, because the line-up space was too narrow to fit more people; Most of the models rushing out of backstage with their luggage in hand (But not before grabbing a glass of champagne or two) to head to Malpensa/Linate for Paris departures; Absolutely spectacular cheers ringing out for the designers backstage long after the show’s conclusion – a celebration of both the show’s success as well as a great fashion week, perhaps?
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