With yet another ready-to-wear runway season just around the corner for the major fashion capitals, a sea of new and old faces will once again flood the catwalks. But how exactly do such a select crop of models actually end up representing particular labels? What is the “it” factor when it comes to rising above the other 99% of candidates? Angus Munro, one of the leading casting directors in the industry and the man behind runway jobs like Luella Bartley and Pucci (Not to mention print work ranging from V editorials to Pringle of Scotland campaigns), understands firsthand about such dilemmas. Here, he talks to us about his own career as well as what goes on within his mind when it comes to coupling a clothing company’s image with the perfect models. After all, to choose only a few stars amongst the most beautiful people in the world is anything but a simple task.
Where did your interest for the casting profession originally stem from?
I was a model agent for 10 years prior to starting casting. Very early on in my career I was made the head of new faces at Elite London (now Premier) and was therefore responsible for scouting and launching new girl’s careers. I suppose that was the first point that I got a taste for the process from its grass roots.
Did you ever have ambitions headed in a different direction? Or has working within the fashion industry always been your foremost goal?
I did indeed! I was a professional racing driver from the age of seven till a career-ending crash at the age of seventeen meant I had to think of other life goals. Not having thought about ever doing anything else, my rather old-fashioned British family thought I should embark on a career in the foreign office!
What would you say was the “great turning point” of your career? Was there any particular person who played a crucial role in that transition?
Absolutely. When I started working with David Sims closely it was he who saw my potential for casting at the highest level. I cast every single one of his jobs for years and therefore my name became synonymous with high-grade casting and that was certainly the turning point for my career.
When a designer gives you the responsibility of casting the models for his or her show, what are some details that you request from the designer before proceeding?
Each designer is different. For example Luella or Matthew Williamson and I will work very closely on casting through the closed season …. talking about the direction of the collection as it takes shape and where that should lead us casting-wise. Other designers such as Preen and Narciso expect me to arrive and have an idea to propose once I see the clothes. Before we agree to doing a show we normally check the schedule and the clashes with other shows. These days shows are much more crammed together than they were even 5 years ago and logically there are lots of fights between casting directors for the top girls. Sometimes it is just better to say no to a show than to go through the silliness.
Do you ever find it difficult to set aside your own personal tastes for what is best for the collection/overall theme, or do most designers trust your intuition?
Again each designer is different. For the most part I am thoroughly convinced in my ability to tailor a casting to the brand at the expense of my own ego. I think it is crucial to work with the designer / stylist … don’t forget these are the people who have conceived the collection and know who their “woman” is. In addition I often interface with the marketing departments too in order to ascertain what they are trying to convey to the press. For example should we have Lily Donaldson open the Preen show as it is a British brand. There are many more considerations along the winding casting route that are mostly to do with sales and media exposure that are perhaps too boring to list! In reality I am sure I would love to cast all my shows to my taste exclusively but that would neither be realistic nor appropriate.
Throughout the advancement of your career, who or what has been most influential in your development of those personal tastes?
I really believe that I like what I like. I like to think that I am not that influenced by the latest trend around me and am consistent in my taste.
And in terms of those preferences, what would you consider to be some qualities you look for the most in a model when casting a job? Do you hold different standards for female models than for male models?
Every job differs in its model requirements. However, generally you can not go wrong if you are always looking for the most beautiful person who exudes a current coolness and desirability. Our job is essentially to help people sell clothes. Models need to be aspirational figures for the clothes-buying public, someone who’s face makes this brand more sought after than that one.
Please login or register to add a comment!